Scotland Islands - OrkneySearch this site: I have no special Viking axe to grind but amongst Scotland islands, but I really like Orkney because the local folk seem to genuinely want you to enjoy what the place has to offer (and may tell you in an Orcadian accent that is somehow just melodic to the ear). There are three all but inescapable themes for an Orkney visit – wildlife, prehistory, and the more recent history of Scapa Flow as a wartime fleet anchorage.
The old established town of Stromness was once the last watering place for generations of ships, such as whalers, trading vesels and Arctic explorers, before they set sail for the polar regions. What else on Scotland islands Orkney? Well, the cliffs at Yesnaby, north of Stromness also seem to be on the ‘milk run’ – the squares of old concrete where you park are relics of war-time gun sites. However, if you really want rugged cliffs – to be honest, totally scary ones! – then you’ll find Marwick Head bracing – seabird colony on horrifying vertical rock – and there’s a bleak memorial to WWI British leader Lord Kitchener, who lost his life offshore when the naval ship he was travelling on was mined. (You knew that Kitchener invented the idea of a concentration camp, during the Boer War?) More than on any other of Scotland islands, what you’ll constantly hear about Orkney is the fact that it has a greater concentration of prehistoric and early sites than anywhere else in Europe. It’s easy to set up your own little tour round the main island (mainland, as they call it) taking in the Brough of Birsay (watch the tide times!) and the Broch of Gurness as well.
Many visitors take a look at the top of the Old Man of Hoy, the offshore sea-stack, from the nearby cliff. There is a path from Rackwick Bay. (On the way, you may get dive-bombed by great skuas, a large and piratical type of gull, during their breeding season. You will survive this.) But if you think the 450ft (137m) stack is impressive, then see how the ground rises to the cliifs of St John's Head, at 1260ft (384m) one of the highest vertical cliffs in Britain. St John's to the left, Old Man in the distance, right. Also a popular excursion on the ‘mainland’ is the well-promoted Italian Chapel, another war-time theme. As for the other islands of the archipelago, Hoy can (just about) be day-tripped by car-ferry, though you’ll have to walk briskly if you want to park at Rackwick Bay and take the path up to the ‘top view’ of the iconic rock stack of the Old Man of Hoy and then take in the fascinating naval museum at Lyness. (You should probably stay over!) Among Scotland islands, the green isles of the archipelago are definitely on that list of must sees. This cafe interior, overlooking Stromness harbour, is just a reminder that there is good choice of places to eat and accommodation, certainly on mainland Orkney. There is lots more to potentially tick off your list, including the oldest stone houses in northern Europe – 2800-3700BC – away to the north on the island of Papa Westray (Papay) – they are even older than the Skara Brae dwellings. There are good inter-island ferry and air links. Overall, allow at the very least two nights on Orkney mainland, and longer if you add in Hoy. Overall, these islands give a great northern perspective. After a few days here, you want to turn the map upside-down. Return to the Scotland in a week Home Page |
