In the story of Scottish cattle-droving, not much remains that is obvious in the landscape. Above is a picture of an ordinary country lane in Perthshire. It leads down to the River Earn, ahead and marked by the line of trees at a point called Dalpatrick Ford, near the town of Crieff, in Perthshire. The notch in the hazy background hills is the mouth of Glen Turret. (That link takes you to a view north from the summit of Ben Chonzie, seen as a snowy patch above Glen Turret in the picture above. I climbed it a lot!) Glen Turret and Ben Chonzie lie beyond the Highland line and is parallel to the Sma’ Glen, not in the picture but further east (to the right), which similarly leads out of the hills.
Though it looks an attractive-enough bit of Perthshire countryside, there is a ghostly network converging on the old ford here from these and the other Highland routes out of the north. And this relates to the long-vanished trade of Scottish cattle-droving. The peaceful Dalpatrick Ford was a main crossing place for the herds, raised in the north, as they were driven south to the autumn market or tryst; where they were bought by dealers from the south. Roughly in the first half of the 18th century, this market took place in nearby Crieff, then later at Falkirk, further south, beyond the River Forth. A straight line from Dalpatrick Ford back north towards the entrance to the Sma Glen more or less follows a road still called Highlandman’s Loan – a historic name in the story of Scottish cattle-droving, recalling its connection to the hardy Highlanders who came this way long ago.
It is extraordinary to think that in its cattle-dealing heyday, the little resort town of Crieff was virtually Scotland’s largest financial centre – and, in an eerie echo of today’s straitened circumstances, much of the cattle business was done on credit. There wasn’t much cash around, so the dealing was based on bills of exchange. This written promise to pay was in circulation pretty much like a banknote. There was even a bank crash in 1772 which brought down several embryonic financial houses who had interests in the cattle trade.
In Scots, the word tryst means an agreed meeting place – so that the dealers trysted with the owners or drovers to meet them in order to do business. There’s a strand of meaning of the standard English trust in there as well – and so we return to the idea of credit, and the collapse of economies when that trust is absent. True in the old days and still true today. (I wonder if the Crieff pubs in those days had a sign behind the bar that said something like ‘Cash Only
- Nae Coos’. Actually it’s more likely they said ‘Nae rowdy Highlanders’.)
Strictly speaking, Crieff’s role in the story of Scottish cattle-droving as an important tryst ended not because of financial reasons but because of the more peaceable political situation in the latter half of the 18th century, when the Jacobite threat had faded and English dealers felt more confident about travelling north of the Border! The tryst moved to Falkirk as it was nearer England. But just imagine those drovers, as they made their way through the mountains in all weathers, hoping for a good price for their speculative purchases on the hoof.
And in turn, when changing economic conditions impacted on the Highlands and emigration became the norm, the skills of the hardy Highland cattle drovers were exported and made their mark in the New World – as their descendants became some of the cowboys of the ‘Wild West’. (Our page on Scotland’s music also makes reference to the songs they took with them across the Atlantic.)
Today you can still take part in Crieff’s very own modern take on the old market. The Drovers’ Tryst is an autumn festival with the emphasis on discovery of these old roads by walks and tours (though there is plenty of other entertaining stuff as well. And it all helps to keep the story of Scottish cattle-droving a part of our heritage. There is more on Scottish cattle-droving and Crieff here.
Finally, the most famous Scottish cattle droving expert, of course, was Rob Roy. Follow that link for a page or two about him.