Kerrera - does it need visitors?Search this site: In Scotland, remoteness is often a state of mind, or a perception. Kerrera is a good example of this. The island of Kerrera, near Oban in Argyll is on Scotland’s western seaboard. This island calls itself remote, yet its south tip is barely three miles away, as the raven flies, from, say, a large Tesco store in the centre of the substantial town of Oban. (Tescos are the British supermarkets with the slogan ‘Helping you spend less every day’. Technically, this is only accurate for the first three words.)The island, in spite of its nearness to such temples of consumerism, has no real shops of its own, no school, little in the way of smoothly-surfaced roads but lots of the by-product of its sheep everywhere, so don’t wear your best shoes. It has, however, a friendly local ferryman, a dramatic castle and nice views of the much larger island of Mull to the west.
Though it takes only moments to cross the narrows of the Sound of Kerrera, it feels like going back a century. The island has one place to stay, a bunkhouse about a two mile walk to the south. Good friends of ours had booked the place for the weekend. To be honest, I’d never slept in a bunkhouse, especially one converted from a former 18th-century stable. It was well ventilated, especially by the two inch gap below the door. Any bigger and the sheep would have been in to share our beds. (OK, I exaggerate, but didn't like to think what wildlife could have come in.) Naturally, we had to provision ourselves for our stay – that’s also why I mentioned Tesco. But it had been arranged days beforehand (by phone) that our packs would be picked up if we left them in the shed by the pier, after the ferry dropped us off. However, this suddenly was a problem, after we had walked to our lodgings. The bunkhouse ‘management team’ were going to a party so would it be all right if we didn’t get our luggage, consisting of all our food, wine, toothbrushes, night attire, change of clothes and so on, till the next morning? Well, what were they expecting us to say at 4pm on a Friday? Presumably ‘No, that’s fine. We’ll just sleep in the clothes we’re in and suck on a packet of mints one of us has brought. You go off and enjoy yourselves….’ We remained relentlessly polite and so it was with reluctance they agreed to send someone down with a little truck to get our luggage later, as per the original arrangement. While waiting for this ‘traditional island hospitality’ to swing into action we took tea and cake in their tea garden. We were in time, as they closed at 4.30pm. We sat outside, slapping at the midges. (Our anti-midge cream was, of course, in the packs that had not etc.) We watched as an older couple with a young child, who certainly all looked as though they had been for a long walk, arrived breathless and dishevelled at 4.31pm. They were hoping for a reviving cup of tea at least. But no, another opportunity to demonstrate ‘traditional island hospitality’ and to go the extra mile was missed on Kerrera . Instead, the walkers got a glass of water and looked very downcast. Isn’t it funny how first impressions count? I don’t expect I’ll ever want to write about Kerrera again, and though it has a photogenic old castle, there are lots more in Scotland. And the same is true if you’re looking for a friendly island experience. There are plenty more islands to choose. I’ll no doubt write about these places elsewhere on this website one day. Kerrera should be a trip back to an unspoilt Scottish island. But all I’ll remember is the feeling that, basically, as visitors, we were an inconvenience in this place that was just a large sheep-run with some nice views. Naturally, it rained all the next day but I tramped round the mucky paths anyway and discovered the island’s retail centre, see below. Take it from me; there are better western seaboard experiences.
 This is the Kerrera souvenir shop. It seems to be a former horsebox with most of the door blown off by the wind. Desperate is the only word here. And this was its irresistible offer, left. One of the more surreal moments of the visit. Next week's special deal perhaps: grass - half price. No, I didn't get this either. Maybe it was some kind of art installation. I certainly have never seen anything quite like it in Scotland. How embarrassing.
It is only fair to add this picture of Gylen Castle, former stronghold of the MacDougalls, which you'll find at the south end of Kerrera. Great setting - but if you're on a schedule, it probably isn't worth the four mile walk (round trip to ferry) as there are plenty of alternative and interesting places to visit in the Oban area.
And if you don't fancy staying on
Kerrera?
There are plenty more places to stay in Scotland.
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